Kashi – one of the oldest holiest cities ever known is a place to be. Just the experience of being in Kashi, witnessing the magnificent Ganga flow in all her might is incredible. It is a place where you can feel grounded and so serene that one must be present physically for a true inner experience.

As I was in Kashi in the month of February it was off season, very quiet with minimal crowd and very clean. It was right before the busy days of Maha Shiva Ratri. Purpose of my visit to Kashi was solely to perform the rituals for my ancestors and also to satiate my curiosity of all that I had heard about the great ancient city of knowledge and values. More details of the rituals/samskara in Kashi and Rameshwaram will be part of my upcoming blog titled Rameshwaram-Kashi-Prayag-Gaya-Rameshwaram.

One of the powerful temples to seek permission to visit Kashi is the famous KalaBhairava temple which is a walk down a small alley. It is off a very narrow lane and does not accommodate a car. Other popular temples to visit are Maa Vishalakshi Temple, Durga temple and Sankat Mochan Hanuman temple. This Hanuman temple has lot of monkeys all over and one has to be careful about carrying fruits and other items.

Ganga flowing through Kashi has around 88 ghats (steps leading to river edge). We started the boat journey in Ganga waters from Hanuman ghat and went across to take a dip in Ganga. As it was February, water was very cold but we did take a Ganga dip and felt awesome thereafter. There are separate makeshift tents available to change after the dip and we went back to the boat. Our boatman was a real nice person who has dedicated his life to Maa Ganga with a pure heart. As part of the pancha ganga we also visited Bindu Madhava – a temple older than Kashi temple that was foturnately untouched by invaders. This temple is at a good height from the waters and one can sweat climbing the tall steps to the top. We were out of breath when we got to the temple but the priest there was a noble soul and showed us the beautiful large Saligramam of Maha Vishnu. It was a small but very unique temple. We continued our boat ride across several other ghats and also got to see Ganesh ghat which was the place where Meerabai lived. This is however a guest house now. We saw several other ghats including assi ghat, dashashwamedh ghat and manikarnika ghat.

Manikarnika ghat is unique as this is where one can experience the other spectrum of life. This is a place to pause the boat ride, and witness the continuous cremation of the human body. Albeit, this phase of life is the end to another start it is an intriguing feeling to witness the process.  It is also a reminder to realize how short one’s life can be despite the human knowingness that this life is indeed of a mortal and a certainty arises to seek moksha, liberation or freedom. Living your last breath in the sacred city of Kashi is believed to enable attain salvation.

We performed pooja to Maa Ganga during the boat tour. It is a blessing and beautiful sight to let the natural leaf lamp afloat and also offer Gangamaa beautiful white fragrant flowers.

A COMPELLING event to partake in Kashi is the evening Sapta Rishi Aarati in the main Kashi Vishwanath temple. This comprehensive ritual was handed down by Lord Shiva to sapta rishis and has been passed further down to generations. This unique aarati has been ongoing for a very long time and is performed to appease Lord Shiva.

One has to stand in lines outside the specified gate around 6:00pm. No cell phones or big purse is allowed. Once permitted, you get to sit at the 4 exit points outside of the main Kashi Vishwanath sanctum sanctorum (garbagriha or main temple). Inside the sanctum there are 7 pandits or priests seated around the Shivalinga, well versed in chanting the sanskrit vedic verses along with several others who help with the activites. Once the aarati starts it is blissful to see the systematic way the procedures are being conducted. The abhishekam (anointing with milk, water, sandal wood paste, etc) is done to Kashi Shivalinga that is below the ground level and offering of incense, flowers and naivedyam (food) is totally mesmerizing.

Later that same night we revisited the temple to join early morning 3:00am aarati after morning Abhishekam. It was crowded but we got to do sankalpam (resolution for well being of family members & goal) and merged all the ingredients in a small pail or bucket of milk as the priest chanted mantras which was right in the wings of the main Kashi sanctum.  We then took the panchamrutham in the little bucket and performed Abhishekam to Kashi Shivalingam and it was wonderful experience. Once the Abhishekam was completed we again saw another aarati and felt blessed.

The temple is heavily guarded and staff are very helpful. We were lost trying to find the right exit but service personnel helped us come out safely to meet with our driver. As you cannot carry cell phones nor any big purse inside it is difficult to communicate for pickup so do plan ahead.

JAI GANGA MAA !!!!!